Skirt Development

When I made up the toile for the second skirt design, I really liked how the style lines and silhouette worked together and so I decided to develop the idea further.

I first added pleats along the yolk as I felt this would draw in the waist more and accentuate the silhouette.

I then created two box shapes out of separate pieces of fabric and placed them around different areas of the skirt, experimenting with alternative shapes and silhouettes. I found that adding the extra fabric could create a more structured silhouette (left), and could also add extra volume and shape to specific areas such as the hips (right).

These experimentations helped me to create a lot of design developments. I feel I'm really getting into the idea of experimenting on the stand. It's very useful to see an idea in 3-D form directly in front of you so you can see what elements stand out as possible further developments.

Skirt Construction On The Stand

Fitted Pencil Skirt

Today we constructed both a fitted pencil skirt and a traditional, more voluminous skirt. It was interesting to learn that both of these skirts, despite their differences, are made from the same block. 

The block for a skirt comes in two pieces, when creating a pencil skirt the pieces must be joined at the bottom to create minimal excess fabric. A small gap at the top will be formed, but this can be nipped in at the waist when on the stand.

As can be seen when placed on the stand, the skirt would be fitted from waist to hem.

Traditional, Voluminous Skirt

When constructing the traditional skirt the blocks are placed so they meet at the top and form a wide gap down the centre.

This gap, when transferred onto the stand, then creates a much more voluminous skirt silhouette.

I really enjoyed today's exercise and feel I gained a lot of knowledge on how we can manipulate pattern blocks to create different silhouettes and add volume.

Creative Pattern Cutting - Designer Research

Creative Pattern cutting is a great way to reinvent garments and define a brand. Many designers are famous for their use of creative pattern cutting to create unique and innovative designs.

Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake is known for his forward thinking, avant garde designs. Designing for both men and women, Miyake consistently reinvents fashion in response to a wide variety of inspirations.

Miyake's Fall 2013 collection featured a variety of origami inspired designs.  This can be very effective in emphasizing and exaggerating the angles of the human body.

This is a strong example of Issey Miyake's unique creative cutting. The rigid swatches of pleated fabric create a completely new and unique silhouette. 

Alexander Mcqueen
Alexander Mcqueen drew inspiration from a wide range of influences and was famous for not following current trends or styles. His collections, to me, form a strong link between fashion and art with their daring silhouettes and experimental materials.

From the 'Savage Beauty' collection, this dress is very naturalistic with strong elements of fantasy and mythology. I love how the shoulders have been extended so much that they resemble the protective wings of a crow bending around the human body.  

Kate Moss dons the cover of Bazaar UK's May 2011 issue wearing an Alexander Mcqueen dress made of purple organza. The cut leaves a controversially large section of bare flesh at the waist but maintains a light and feminine tone with a dreamlike finish.  

The above designers are very different in  their designs, but equally bold in their pattern cutting. Researching their collections and creative processes has been very inspiring and motivating.

Construction on the stand - Basic Bodice

The basic bodice is a very useful garment to learn how to construct as it can be developed into any type of garment that focuses on the upper torso. The basic bodice can be constructed with either waist and shoulder darts or waist and bust darts. I started with the waist and bust darts.

My first attempt didn't go well. the measurements were off and the seams didn't match up.

In my second attempt, I ensured all measurements were correct and balance marks carefully placed. This was a lot more successful. The waist wasn't as fitted as I would've hoped but that can be fixed in later developments.

I think the exercise went well and I learned the importance of precise measurements and what carelessness can do to the fit of a garment.

Philip Li - Ceramic Artist

The second artist that influenced me most was Philip Li. Li uses ceramics to create sculptures that are designed for the human body. To me, his sculptures are a cross between fine art and costume. They are pieces that I feel would fit just as well into a gallery as they would on a stage.

This design reminds me strongly of a piece of armour. 

I love how this piece exaggerates the shoulders and changes the main focus of the body. 

Lucy Mcrae - Body Architect

After researching artist's whose primary field is not fashion but who have created or featured in projects that touch on the area, I have found two that I am particularly inspired by. The first is a designer, Lucy Mcrae. Trained extensively in ballet and architecture, Mcrae has a deep understanding and interest in the body. Her architectural background also means she is constantly studying the rising needs of humans, this can be seen in her evolutionary designs that focus on the human body.

This bold, illuminating design links to the protective bubble of the jellyfish.

This design reminds me of a snake shedding its skin, it serves as a protecting layer.

This design differs from the others as it seems to focus on a more predatory evolution to do with speed and agility. 

This design reminded me of the spikes of porcupines and hedgehogs. These spikes can be used for protection or attack. The way the photograph has been styled suggests a more attacking focus.

Dress construction on the stand

In class we began to experiment with 3D design development by constructing a dress on to the stand using paper and sellotape. I think this was a great idea as sometimes when your design development is done on paper, when it comes to actually making your garment it may not look like you had imagined it. This 3D development allows you to see from every angle how your garment will look and can also be developed further on the stand.

My first attempt at the exercise was fairly successful.

I then made another design at home. I think this design is a good starting point for further design developments.

I started my 2D developments focusing mainly on the collar band. I think this created  a futuristic look that complimented the design well. I particularly like the design on the far right which features the neck band splitting into three and curling around the shoulder. I think this asymmetric development is unique and eye catching.

I think this exercise is definitely something that I will continue further with as it fits my way of designing impulsively well.